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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.